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10 Great Seaside Destinations

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We all know Britain is an island nation, but you might not realise that England alone has over 6000 miles of coastline, and you’re never more than 70 miles from the sea; therefore, there’s certainly no shortage of seaside destinations!

The coast is widely varied in terms of terrain, accommodating both those who seek out sandy beaches and others who prefer a rugged, rocky coastline, but personally, I’m not as fussed about the beach itself as the attractions surrounding it.

I do love the classic British seaside experience, but beyond that, I look for seaside towns with a unique twist that somehow sets them apart from their coastal cousins. If you’re after sunbathing, then look elsewhere (probably somewhere not in England would be a good bet!) – this is an article for those who share my interest in an unusual and entertaining coastal excursion!

Brighton Beach ©  Roger Kidd and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

Brighton Beach © Roger Kidd and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

1. Southwold on Sea

Southwold on Sea, Suffolk: My absolute favourite seaside attraction has to be the Under the Pier show in Southwold. This “penny” arcade (though everything costs from 10p to a pound) comes from the wonderfully bizarre mind of Tim Hunkin, a local artist and engineer who was given free rein with Southwold’s modest pier, with amazing results.

In this arcade, every game is just a little bit mad, like riding a fly through a kitchen, whilst avoiding being swatted; diving beneath the sea in the patented “Bathyscape” with surprising special effects; and a humble “Walk the Dog” machine (with the adorable robotic dog “Dotty”).

Even the games that look simple are unlike anything you’ve ever played before! Tim’s work extends out onto the boardwalk, with sculptures, a clock – even the telescopic viewers benefit from Tim’s whimsical touch. The rest of Southwold’s seafront is a pleasant, if unremarkable beach, but the Under the Pier show is not to be missed!

2. Great Yarmouth

Great Yarmouth, Norfolk: Great Yarmouth has long been home to a thriving herring industry (the local cold-smoked herring are known as “bloaters”), and also has an extensive pier and series of funfairs. There’s not much to distinguish the seafront from any other resort town, other than the sheer size of it (it stretches on for miles, with chippies and ice cream shops as far as the eye can see), but an episode of Keeping up Appearances was filmed here, and the rides have remained unchanged since the ’90s, so you can recreate Hyacinth’s experience (if you provide your own old man with busy hands).

I also kind of dig the old-fashioned penny arcade (this one actually does take pennies, but they’re old-timey ones that you have to exchange 20ps for) hidden along the boardwalk. But there’s also history to be found here; Nelson was once a resident, and the town is now home to the Nelson Museum. In addition to this, there’s the Time and Tide Museum, located in a former herring processing plant where the authentic smells linger on and you’ll learn more about herring than you ever wanted to know, as well as details of the town’s fascinating history, including the first Zeppelin attacks of WWI.

3. Blakeney Point

Blakeney Point, Norfolk: Blakeney Point is the place to visit if you want to see seals. Common and Grey Seals both congregate here, and have their pups have different times of year, so you’ve got pretty good odds of seeing some whether you visit in winter or summer (though obviously summer is a far more comfortable temperature!).

You’ll need to book a place on a boat tour in advance; the main companies are Beans, Bishops, and Temples (all offer similar excursions, see websites for details); the boats take you out around the spit for maximum seal viewing, and then you’re given time to wander around the shingled outcrop (though there isn’t much to see apart from a small National Trust owned hut and some private holiday homes), but really, it’s all about the seals and the other wildlife that inhabit this untamed bit of coastline.

4. Hastings

Hastings, Sussex: Hastings is not where the battle of 1066 took place (that would be in nearby Battle, which is inland), but that’s ok, because they have a funicular (actually, two funiculars!). I’m sure I’m not the only one who thinks these cliff railways are great fun, and the ones here not only offer fabulous views upon reaching the top, but also provide access to Hastings Castle, and St. Clement’s Caves, which houses the quite cheesy looking Smugglar’s Adventure.

Hastings also has a number of small, free museums located within the attractive Old Town, like the Shipwreck Heritage Centre, Fisherman’s Museum (which is dominated by a replica ship), Town Hall Museum, and the intriguing Flowermaker’s Museum (which was a surprisingly dangerous craft in Victorian times, as the leaves were dyed green with arsenic – I assume the factory is a much safer place today!).

5. Bude

Bude, Cornwall: Bude straddles the border between North Devon and Cornwall, and has a magnificent sandy beach, and often, warm water (unusual indeed in England). While the beach itself is lovely, there’s plenty more to do in the surrounding countryside, including a few particularly eclectic attractions.

The Gnome Reserve is run by an eccentric lady with a passion for these mythical creatures, and you can explore her gnome collection (arranged in amusing tableaux) and a pixie garden, all in a beautiful setting, and wearing the obligatory gnome hat. There’s also the Big Sheep, a sheep themed amusement park, which can be perhaps be skipped unless you REALLY like sheep, but you’re additionally only an hour away from the famous Eden Project, which has a more wide-ranging appeal.

6. Portsmouth

Portsmouth, Hampshire: Portsmouth doesn’t really offer the full-on pier/pleasure beach experience (for that, head to neighbouring Southsea, which is also where the hovercrafts leave for the Isle of Wight), but it does have plenty to do. You can head up the iconic Spinnaker Tower for views of the city, or to one of the military museums, like the D-Day Museum (especially relevant this year as it’s the 70th anniversary), but I also love the Historic Dockyards, where Nelson’s HMS Victory is dry-docked. As if touring this wonderfully important ship isn’t enough, the Dockyards also have the Mary Rose museum, where you can see artefacts and a large section of the Tudor ship that sank just off the harbour, and was found amazingly preserved at the bottom of the sea some 400 years later.

7. Brighton

Brighton, Sussex: Brighton is a notorious daytrip destination for stag parties and hen dos alike, being only an hour outside of London. However, if you visit in the daytime, before the place gets too crazy, there’s lots to see and do (and eat!). I wouldn’t say Brighton’s beach is the greatest, as it’s so rocky, but the Victorian-era pier is still going strong, and is a good place to get a taste of the modern British seaside.

Brighton is a very tolerant city, and thus is home to a thriving gay community, plenty of tattoo parlours, and loads of vegetarian and vegan cafes. The food scene in general is strong here, and wandering around the independent boutiques and antique shops of the narrow Lanes will offer many opportunities for snacking (I especially love the ice cream at Scoop and Crumb, near the seafront). Brighton also has a small local museum, and the fabulously flamboyant oriental-themed Royal Pavilion, designed for George IV.

8. Lyme Regis

Lyme Regis, Dorset: For fossils and other geological fun, try Lyme Regis on the south coast of England. It was here that Mary Anning famously discovered some of the first dinosaur fossils, and this whole area is today known as the “Jurassic Coast” thanks to its superb fossil record. In addition to the fossils, Lyme Regis is also where the manufacturer of Coade Stone was from (Coade stone is an artificial stone that was a favourite building material for Victorians, as it was one of the few materials (in addition to brick) that could withstand the coal smoke and smoggy environs of London), so there is a large chunk of Coade stone set with ammonites outside one of the local natural history focused museums to commemorate this (you can see real ammonites in the surrounding cliffs).

9. Whitstable, Kent

Whitstable, Kent: What might at first seem like a fairly generic Kentish seaside town hides a secret behind the picturesque brightly painted beach cottages, in its alleyways. For, these little streets have hilarious names, like Squeezegut Alley, and Bogshole Lane. The photo ops alone are pretty great, and Whitstable is just large enough to have everything else you want at the seaside – a solid chippy, and a tasty, local ice cream parlour. It might not be the most exciting town on this list, but I’ve always had a perfectly nice day out here.

10. Whitby Abbey

Whitby, Yorkshire: Thanks to Bram Stoker’s Dracula, Whitby has a reputation for being a dark and sinister place. Goths flock here in droves to soak up the atmosphere that clings to the ruined Abbey on the hill, and the local entrepreneurs capitalise on this. Thus, Whitby is sort of a seaside town-cum-haunted house, that maintains a Halloweeny vibe year round. No cheesy touch that might appeal to tourists is overlooked here – from the lame “Dracula’s Castle” right down to “Bram-bleberry Stoker” ice cream (which is actually quite nice). If spooky stuff isn’t really your thing, try nearby Robin Hood’s Bay, which is a charming, well-preserved Victorian town, overlooking a pristine bit of the “Dinosaur Coast.”

Since the sea has historically been such an important part of England’s culture, I really think any visit here should include at least one seaside stop – if not for the history, then at least for some fish and chips and an ice cream! There are so many other fabulous places that I didn’t have room to mention here, but I hope my list is a good starting point to planning a day at the coast!

Jessica is originally from Cleveland, Ohio, but has spent the past five years living in London with her British boyfriend. She says hi to the statue of Samuel Johnson every time she’s on Fleet Street, and sometimes feels like she knows the Georgians better than her actual contemporaries. She loves history, ice cream, and travelling, so when she’s not busy reading or baking, she’s out visiting museums and blogging about them over at Diverting Journeys.


Over the Hill: The Via Ferrata

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Over the Hill is a series of articles based on interviews with people over fifty enjoying life and getting the most out of living in Britain.

Via Ferrata. The name alone sends shivers down my flat, sea-level, Texan spine. The “Iron Way” is a series of rungs, ladders, bridges, and steel cables fixed to the side of a mountain face. These paths originated in Italy and Europe, but the English Lake District also boasts their own version of the Via Ferrata. Using the original miner’s track at the Honister Slate mine, the VF website boasts that the average person on the street can become a mountaineer! *gulp*

Knowing a little of the Via Ferrata, I was pretty astonished when my friend Judith told me her 79 year old father, Bryan Scales, had completed the track last year! Bryan made the trek with his two daughters: Yvonne Grant and Judith Yates, their husbands: Neil and Colin, and grandson James Grant. Upon arrival, the guide looked over their small group and asked Bryan, “Are you going too?”

The group laughed and told the guide, “The trip was his idea!”

How it all came to this…

Bryan Scales was 11 years old when the Second World War ended. Though he lived in Yorkshire, he spent holidays with his grandparents who lived along the Lancashire coast. “My parents would visit, driving a hired car, and we would all go on day trips to the Trough of Bowland, or north to the Lake District.”

He loved the freedom and isolation from the rush and bustle of his hometown. Walking and biking became his passion. But, Bryan soon learned that the outdoors could be more dangerous than he’d ever imagined! On a trip to view the Grossglockner (the highest mountain in Austria) across the Pasterze glacier, he and a few of his friends slithered down onto the glacier. They looked down into one of the many very deep fissures in the ice and were duly impressed. They then walked around to find a better view and saw that they had been standing on a 6-inch thick shelf overhanging the chasm! They froze, then ran to the edge of the glacier and scrambled up the loose rock back to the waiting bus.

Later, at University, Bryan met his future wife, Dorothy, who also had a passion for the outdoors. Many times, they rode their tandem bike to new adventures. Later, they used public transport and youth hostels to get around the Pennines, the Scottish border, and the Yorkshire Moors and Dales. Though Bryan’s job took them to Cheshire, he and his wife never gave up walking and determined to walk at least 6 hours a day whenever possible. They began making circular walks (the longest of which was 18 miles) that would return them to a comfortable base.

As Bryan and Dorothy got older, alternate days became “rest days”. In 2004, they had a look around the Honister Slate Mine in the Lake District and read that there was an effort underway to rejuvenate the mine with a mile-long zip wire, but the city council turned down the idea. Whispers of a Via Ferrata, though, were enough to whet his appetite for more information!

In 2007, Mark Weir (a local entrepreneur) opened the very first Via Ferrata in the UK at the Honister Slate Mine in Cumbria.

Sadly, on December 5th, 2012 Dorothy passed away. So, in 2013, Bryan and his family went to the Lake District to scatter her ashes on the hills she loved to walk so much. And, to sign up for the Via Ferrata!
There are two versions of the walk, and they chose the easier one to accommodate the desires of most of the group.

“The walk takes about an hour with an extra 15 minutes to walk back down to the shop and café,” says Bryan. “The most worrying part was climbing around the large knobble overhanging a rather frightening drop of a few hundred feet.”

Bryan Scales © Judith Yates

Bryan Scales © Judith Yates

They were attached with a couple of karabiners, but even so, the sound of ice sheets falling down the other side of the gully and bouncing off rocks 500 feet below was unnerving. “You just have to trust your hands, feet, eyes, ears, and the two karabiners!”

I asked Bryan if the Via Ferrata was what he expected. He said it was exciting, but he enjoyed it and (sounding just like a man!) that it was what he’d expected.

I’m sitting here in my sea-level home, in my sea-level chair at my sea-level computer and I’m thinking that if I was 79, being lashed to the side of a mountain wouldn’t exactly be my idea of a relaxing way to spend the day. My bet is that what Bryan isn’t letting on is that it was a pretty darn amazing thing for a 79 year old gent to have done. If he was here, I’d pin a medal on him because at my tender age of…. let’s just say, at my tender age… I don’t think you could get me near the Via Ferrata. The shop, maybe. Possibly the café. But nowhere near two karabiners and a steel cable up the side of a mountain!

I see this as an incredible accomplishment, and one Bryan Scales can be very proud of.

As we were winding up the interview, I asked Bryan if, at age 80, he’d do the Via Ferrata again.

“YES!” he said. In all caps.

Victory Jump ©  Judith Yates

Victory Jump © Judith Yates

Postscript: The Honister Slate Mine is open 7 days a week from 9 to 5 for tours. The Via Ferrata hours vary. Please check www.honister-slate-mine.co.uk to book yourself (and/or your parents) for a unique experience in the Cumbrian Lake District!

Joy Owen is a travel author and experienced adventurer (travel is always an adventure!). She has lived in England and minored in British History. Her passions include traveling Britain, travel planning/packing, British history, storytelling, public speaking, mentoring and training. She writes at www.wanderingengland.blogspot.com and at www.wainwright.org.uk

The Alternative B & B

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Traditionally B&B stands for Bed and Breakfast. With locations all over Great Britain, a bed and breakfast is defined as a small lodging establishment that offers overnight accommodation and breakfast but usually does not offer other meals. In more resent times the meaning of the term has also extended to include accommodations that are also known as self-catering establishments. Typically bed and breakfasts are private homes with fewer than 10 bedrooms available for commercial use. Often B&B’s are a cheaper alternative to renting a hotel room.

So has the classic British music hall song goes: Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside, Oh, I do like to be beside the sea, oh, I do like to stroll along the Prom, Prom, Prom, Where the brass bands play Tidily-om-pom-pom. The term B&B in this posting refers to Beaches and Bars. Popular seaside towns and cities throughout the UK include: Aberystwyth, Barmouth, Blackpool, Brighton, Clacton, Dover, Exmouth, Great Yarmouth, LLandudno, Margate, New Quay, Rhyl, St. Ives, Skegness, Swansea, Torquay and Weston Super Mare.

Barmouth Beach ©  George Tod and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

Barmouth Beach © George Tod and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

So here I have chosen for your enjoyment my favorite top ten seaside locations and pubs in my chosen location. Please feel free to let me know if you have visited any of my choices or have a favorite location that you would like to share with us.

1. Barmouth, Gwynedd, North West Wales - A favorite location of mine ever since I was five years of age. For me this location was my second home. My family had a holiday home located right close to the beach. I have very fond memories of this place. Consisting of over 50 miles of coastline, Barmouth remains one of the most popular tourist locations in North Wales. Fantastic views of mount Snowdon make this location truly magnificent. The 1930’s movie Ghost Train was filmed here, so was the 1980’s movie First Knight. Poet William Wordsworth, a visitor to Barmouth in the 19th century, described it as: “With a fine sea view in front, the mountains behind, the glorious estuary running eight miles inland, and Cadair Idris within compass of a day’s walk, Barmouth can always hold its own against any rival.”

Murray’s Cafe Bar, King Edward Street, would be my chosen drinking establishment if I were to visit today. Murray’s, are a family run cafe with a focus on homemade and home cooked meals, cakes and sandwiches. Murray’s motto is Eat, Drink and Relax.

2. Weston Super Mare, Somerset, England – One of the most favorite locations for tourists for over the past hundred years. Owing to the large tidal range in the Bristol Channel the low tide mark on Weston’s beach is about a mile from the seafront. Although the beach itself is sandy, low tide uncovers areas of thick mud, hence the nickname Weston Super Mud. Today the town hosts attractions like long sandy beaches, the Helicopter Museum, Weston Super Mare Historical Museum, the Grand Pier, the Sea Aquarium, the Bike Nights, which are motorcycle meetings on the Promenade each Thursday during the summer, they are organized by The Royal British Legion and the seasonal donkey rides on the beach.

In 2009 a survey by Visit England placed the pier amongst the top ten free attractions in the country. You will be spoilt for choice when it comes to drinking establishments. The Claremont Vaults, 3 Birnbeck Road, known for being a friendly English/Irish pub with stunning views over Weston Bay, the Bristol Channel and the South East coast of Wales is one good reason why I have known to have spent many hours of drinking at this location.

3: Scarborough, Yorkshire, England – Many a great day at the beach can be found here. Scarborough is the largest holiday resort on the Yorkshire coast. The most striking feature of the town’s geography is a high rocky promontory pointing eastward into the North Sea. The promontory supports the 11th-century ruins of Scarborough Castle and separates the sea front into two bays, to the north and south. The double beach is something that you must see. The South Bay was the site of the original early medieval settlement and the harbor area remains the main tourist area, with a sandy beach, cafés, amusements, arcades, theatres and entertainment facilities. With abundance of pubs and bars to choose from I plumped for, The Duchess Pub, 152 Hovingham Drive. The three of the local ales to die for are: Burton Bitter, Hob Goblin and the Mansfield Creamy Smooth.

4: The Mumbles, Glamorgan, South Wales – Located three miles west of Swansea city center (Wales’s second largest city). Great views across Swansea Bay make this one of the favorite places to visit in the whole of South Wales. Featured in the movie Twin Town, the Mumbles was said to be one of Dylan Thomas’s best location for inspiration. Thomas once quoted the Mumbles as being “an ugly, lovely town, crawling, sprawling by the side of a long and splendid curving shore. This sea-town was my world” Other attractions include a Lighthouse built in 1974, and a Victorian Pier. Oystermouth Castle is also well worth a visit, sitting on a hilltop with fabulous views overlooking the sea. Welsh Bitter is on tap at The George, Mumbles Road, here you will get a fantastic view over Swansea Bay and is a fantastic place to eat and drink.

5. Blackpool, Lancashire, England – Known by the locals as the Las Vegas of England. Blackpool hosts the golden mile located between the North and South piers, here many casinos and slot machines can either make you rich or broke, mainly broke. Blackpool Tower opened to the public on 14 May 1894, and is inspired by the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France, it rises to 518 feet. The tower is a Grade I listed building. Blackpool Pleasure Beach is an amusement park and resort and is the most visited tourist attraction in the United Kingdom and one of the top twenty most visited amusement parks in the world. Blackpool rock is a type of hard stick shaped boiled sugar confectionery most usually flavored with peppermint or spearmint.

Over the years I have spent many a few hours supping ale in, The Manchester Stores, located on the promenade situated between the South and Central piers. Still going strong after decades The Manchester still remains one of the most renowned pubs on the Blackpool Promenade. Today it caters for all types of clientele from families to large parties of stags and hens (Stags and Hens are British terms for a bachelors and bachelorettes).

6. Brighton, Sussex, England – Ahh! The beach with no sand. Here you will find tiny pebbles in place of sand, quite unique so well worth a visit. Brighton is often known as the gay capital of England, due to its large amount of lesbian and gay population. The 1979 movie Quadrophenia was filmed there, re-creating the mods vs rockers battle of the 1960’s. On the 12th of October 1984, at the Grand Hotel in Brighton, the then prime minister Margaret Thatcher was the subject of an assassination attempt. A planned bomb attack went off, although Mrs. Thatcher narrowly escaped injury, five people were killed, including two members of the Conservative Party and 31 other hotel guests were injured. Brighton is also the home of Britain’s oldest pier built in 1891. My chosen pub location would have to be, The Black Lion, located on Black Lion Street. The Black Lion is a lively late night venue with a cavern like feel. The best DJs in Brighton spin rare vinyl spanning from ’60s Motown and Northern Soul, Funk, Ska, Mod Revival, ’80s Anthems, Hip Hop, Breaks, Electronica, Punk, Rock and classic and modern Indie.

7. St. Andrews, Fife, Scotland – Named after Saint Andrew the Apostle. There has been an important church in St Andrews since at least the 8th century. The home of golf, this is in part because the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, founded in 1754, exercises legislative authority over the game worldwide. The town is home to the University of St Andrews, the third oldest university in the English speaking world and the oldest in Scotland. West Sands Beach served as the set for the opening scene in the movie Chariots of Fire, while the beach was also featured in the 2012 Summer Olympics Opening Ceremony. Sand dunes on the beach are themselves in danger of eroding away and are the subject of a restoration project.

The best watering holes can be located along either North or South Street. An old favorite of mine is, Rascals Bar and Grill, 199 North Street. Built around the television show Man vs Food the Rascal is currently offering burger challenges to its customers. Their biggest challenge, the Poppa’s Revenge burger consists of five 12oz patties, 8 slices of bacon, cheese and pulled pork on a bun and served with fries, salad, liquid magma chicken wings and a giant milkshake. Try it if you dare, if you lose you pay the house $30.

8. Bangor, County Down, Northern Ireland – This seaside resort is located 13 miles east of Belfast, the largest city in Northern Ireland. One of this towns claim to fame is that in 2007, it was voted by Ulster Television viewers as the most desirable place to live in Northern Ireland. The town is twinned with Bregenz in Austria and Virginia Beach in the United States of America. Live music is an important part of the town’s social scene. So has you can imagine there are lots of bars and taverns to be found here, all serving local Irish ale together with the world famous Guinness.

If you ever find yourself in this lovely location may I recommend that you spend a few hours at, Donegan’s, situated on High Street in downtown Bangor. The minute that you set your foot in the establishment you are immediately taken back in time due to the vast amount of items of the past found in the first floor lounge. The pub itself is divided into three sections giving it a unique feeling combined with a cozy atmosphere in the evenings making it a perfect recipe for the ultimate experience.

9. Margate, Kent, England – This town can be found in history books dating back to 1246. For at least 250 years Margate has been a leading seaside resort in the UK, drawing Londoners to its beach by the millions every year. There are two notable theatres; The Theatre Royal is the second oldest theatre in the country while the Tom Thumb Theatre is known to be the second smallest in the country. Poet T.S. Elliott while recuperating after a mental breakdown in 1921, wrote The Waste Land Part III, The Fire Sermon, while visiting Margate Beach. Former great train robber Ronnie Biggs was very fond of Margate and he was known to have spent the majority of his summer holidays in this town. On the few occasions that I visited Margate I often drank at the Promenade Inn, situated on Station Road, just a hop, step and a jump away from Margate train station, the main train line into London.

10. Exmouth, Devon, England – One of Britain’s largest fishing towns which consists of over 35 miles of coastline with some of the most magnificent beaches in the country. Many legendary strong ales and cider have been brewed and drunk here over the years. Sir Walter Raleigh sailed on many of his voyages from Exmouth harbor. The Holy Trinity Church was said to be built in 1412. Britain’s first lifeboat rescue service was established in 1803.

The Beach Pub, Victoria Road, is one location worth visiting. Local food and beer is served daily. The Beach is your typical traditional pub, situated on the Marina and a few minutes’ walk from the town center and the seafront. Friendly locals, beamed ceilings and excellent food are just a few reasons why The Beach is a great place to enjoy your evenings. Don’t just take my word for it. Drop in, if you are ever in this part of the West Country.

So if you are looking for destinations with sun, sand, sea, eating and drinking, then please feel free to visit any of my recommendations. Just remember the locations I have mentioned are my personal favorites only. I would love to hear your comments of other recommendations that you may have or if you have any comments on my chosen lists of ten. So happy sun seeking and please do travel safely. Always remember to drink responsibly. And finally one word of warning, whatever you do, never drink and drive, because you may spill some (hahaha, an oldie but goodie).

Trevor Morris is a British expat living in Fond Du Lac, Wisconsin. Born in Birmingham, England, He enjoys sharing what he admires about his hometown and is a huge Aston Villa fan. He is well travelled to many locations across England & Wales and is happy to share his personal experiences with anyone who cares to read. Married with two daughters, his hobbies include travel, sports & family time. He is currently studying Criminal Justice at Marian University.

Abdication? Not Happening

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Last week saw the accession of Felipe VI of Spain following the abdication of his father, Juan Carlos I after a 38 ½ year reign on the Spanish throne. With this development, combined with similar abdications in the Netherlands with Queen Beatrix, at the Vatican with Pope Benedict XVI, as well as with the King of the Belgians and the Emir of Qatar, there has been a chorus of discussion around Queen Elizabeth’s future.

At 88 years old, the British monarch – having already reigned for 62 years – is older than the aforementioned people who have decided to pass power on to somebody else, and is Britain’s longest-lived monarch. Now she is on course to surpass Queen Victoria as the longest-reigning monarch in Britain’s history.

If and when that milestone is passed on September 10, 2015, the question will probably grow a bit louder: “How much longer can she go?”
Elizabeth II and her 93 year old husband, Prince Philip, are still going strong with a busy schedule of engagements and other activities.

The Coronation Portrait of Queen Elizabeth II © Cecil Beaton

Earlier this year, they took a day trip to Rome where they met Italian President Giorgio Napolitano and Pope Francis. Over the course of five days at the beginning of June, they attended the State Opening of Parliament, hosted a garden party at Buckingham Palace, and traveled to France for a three-day state visit which included the commemorations for the 70th anniversary of the D-Day landings of Normandy during World War II.

Beginning on June 23rd, they will visit Northern Ireland for a three-day visit which includes a tour of the Titanic Studios in Belfast, where among other things, the popular television series Game of Thrones is filmed. Then comes Holyrood Week, during which the Queen will move her court to Edinburgh and take up residence at the Palace of Holyroodhouse to carry out a series of engagements in Scotland, including the launching of the Royal Navy’s largest-ever ship – a super aircraft carrier named in honor of Her Majesty.

Yet for all of this activity, there is concern for the Queen’s health as she continues to age. Long-haul travel is being evaluated on a case-by-case basis for the remainder of her reign, and other members of the Royal Family are becoming more prominent as they take on some of her duties – most notably her eldest son and heir, Prince Charles. Last month, it was Charles who stood in for his mother during the central part of the Order of the Bath service, which required an ascent up a flight of steps deemed too steep for the Queen.

With this in mind, the word “abdication” is being uttered more frequently. There have been suggestions that the Queen has done her bit and deserves a well-earned retirement; that the time has come for a new generation; that if the Queen had the monarchy’s best interest at heart, she would be unselfish and take this sensible step of abdication.

The Duke of Windsor ©

The Duke of Windsor – formerly Edward VIII – in 1945. © Abbie Rowe (1905-1967) via the National Archives – Public Domain

However, the simple fact is that abdication is not in the lexicon of the British monarchy. If anything, it is seen as a disgraceful act thanks to the actions of the Queen’s uncle Edward VIII (known as to the family as David), who in 1936 infamously plunged the country into a constitutional crisis and then abdicated the throne to marry the woman he loved – the twice-divorced American, Wallis Simpson.

Because of this, the Queen’s father succeeded as George VI into a role for which he was not destined, and for which he was not prepared to take on. Eventually, he became a much-beloved monarch, in large part because of his solidarity with the British people while the Nazi Blitz occurred all around them in London and throughout the country. However, the rigors of being a wartime king took its toll on George VI, hastening the decline of his health in the years after the war ended, resulting in his death at the relatively young age of 56 in 1952.

It has long been believed by members of the Royal Family (not least the late Queen Mother) that were it not for King Edward’s abdication – the only voluntary abdication in British history – his brother would have been spared the pressures of kingship and possibly lived longer. This view condemns Edward for abandoning the throne and shirking his duties, which ultimately led to his brother’s premature death. More severely, the abdication was an embarrassment that brought shame to the monarchy and nearly wrecked it.

George VI © On Wikipedia and in the public domain.

George VI © On Wikipedia and in the public domain.

For the reigning Queen, the lesson learned from the abdication crisis was the mantra of “duty first” above all else, including personal passions and/or desires. So as Princess Elizabeth in 1947, she marked her 21st birthday by making a radio broadcast from South Africa to the British Empire and Commonwealth, in which she said:
“I declare before you all that my whole life whether it be long or short shall be devoted to your service and the service of our great imperial family to which we all belong.”

By making this statement, she vowed to serve for life, indicating that she would not follow in the steps of her “Uncle David” and place anybody in the same position as her father in 1936.

This commitment to duty was solidified when Her Majesty took the Coronation Oath at Westminster Abbey, in which she solemnly promised and swore to govern her peoples throughout Britain and the Commonwealth, and then was anointed with holy oil. By all accounts, the Queen takes her Christian faith seriously and considered the anointing as the most sacred part of the Coronation ceremony – so sacred, that it was not televised nor filmed during the live broadcast.

For her, this is not about being selfish or a self-righteous grip on power. This is about being at the unfailing service of her peoples, as she has been doing for over 60 years, and as she will continue to do for as long as she can do so. There is also a concern that if she takes this step, then it may set a precedent for future monarchs to do the same when they reach a certain age, which again, is not in the British tradition. It is entirely possible that she will live to be a centenarian like her mother, by which time she will have reigned for 74 years, and the Queen Mother was still active in her Royal duties until almost the end.

A lifelong commitment to service has been the hallmark of the Queen’s reign and emphasizes the continuity of the monarchy. Mosaic by Helen Marshall, as featured at the Towner Gallery in Eastbourne, England during the Diamond Jubilee. © Abuk SABUK on Wikipedia and available for reuse under Creative Commons License

A lifelong commitment to service has been the hallmark of the Queen’s reign and emphasizes the continuity of the monarchy. Mosaic by Helen Marshall, as featured at the Towner Gallery in Eastbourne, England during the Diamond Jubilee. © Abuk SABUK on Wikipedia and available for reuse under Creative Commons License

So Elizabeth II will continue on until she draws her last breath as well, or until she is incapacitated from carrying out her most essential functions as a monarch, such as meeting with ministers, reviewing state papers, and opening parliament. Under such a scenario, Prince Charles would officially act in her stead as a regent by Act of Parliament – which is similar to what happened in the 19th Century, when George III succumbed to his madness and his son ruled on his behalf for a decade, before becoming king in his own right as George IV.

Already, there are transition plans being implemented – with Charles carrying on more of the Queen’s ceremonial duties, such as investitures, as well as representing her on long-distance travels. However, he himself may not be in any rush to accede to the throne, for as Prince of Wales, he has more freedom and flexibility to carry on with the work of his charities and to speak out on issues that are important to him, such as the environment, architecture, and youth opportunity. As a constitutional monarch, he will likely have to cut back on his advocacy and adapt to the constraints of kingship, which by convention require him stay above politics and to serve as a force of unity around which the country can gather.

That is what the Queen has been doing for over 60 years, and she has done an exemplary job – rarely putting a foot wrong. In the process, she has dutifully been at the service of the people in accordance to the promises she made so long ago. This is why she will not abdicate.

Wesley Hutchins is a 2012 graduate of the University of Georgia in the United States, with a degree in Economics. However, he has a passion for the history of several subjects, including the British monarchy, and as such is the author of Yankee Royalist – an American’s guide to the monarchy, with insights on its past, present, and future.

Researching Your Family Tree in the UK

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The following is a guest post.

With the continued rise in popularity of family history television programmes like ‘Who Do You Think You Are?’, and the programme then serving to be an enormous inspiration to so many people, more and more people are now jetting off (and having the most amazing time in the process) as they set out to follow the trail of their family history and to walk in their own ancestors footsteps, just like the celebrities on ‘Who Do You Think You Are?’ do.

If you have UK ancestors and have ever dreamt of experiencing your UK heritage, there are some absolutely fantastic resources available now to help you to plan and prepare for your family history journey and to help you to really have a ‘dream come true’ experience.

Family Tree © clipartbest.com

Family Tree © clipartbest.com

Many travel and tourism offices are now recognising the growing popularity of family history research and are offering some fantastic ‘heritage seeking’ options with their travel itineraries, including personalised ancestry or heritage tours, but another really wonderful option, if you are looking for a more personalised tour, would be to employ a professional genealogist who can really help you to paint the picture of your ancestors lives.

Most genealogists are more than happy to have the opportunity to share in your journey and your family’s stories, and can act as incredibly wonderful tour guides of the local area, helping to make all of your family’s stories come to life for you.

So where do you begin?

If you are completely new to researching your family tree, the very first thing to try to do, is to gather absolutely everything that you can together (literally anything and everything that you are able to find) that relates to your family, and in particular the line of your family that you are hoping to discover more about on your journey.

Try to make a list of everything that you can think of, no matter how big or small, starting with yourself and then working your way backwards to list all of the known dates and places within your family of things like births, christenings, marriages and deaths etc… The more that you are able to find of these things, the more that it will greatly be able to assist you in your search. A great tip, is also to speak to as many relatives as possible and to ask questions about what they may possibly also know. You might even be really surprised with the results.

There are now some absolutely fantastic records available online for beginning your research, and two wonderful places to start are the Ancestry UK website http://www.ancestry.co.uk for UK records, and the Family Search website http://www.familysearch.org

The FreeBMD website http://www.freebmd.org.uk is also a brilliant resource for locating the reference details of any certificates that you may need to order, and all UK certificates can be purchased via the GRO (General Register Office) website.

Two other websites that are incredibly invaluable when conducting your research are the GENUKI website http://www.genuki.com, which provides a reference point for all UK and Ireland genealogical services, and Cyndi’s List http://www.cyndislist.com/uk, which is amazing and provides links to absolutely everything also related to family history.

Another fantastic thing to try and take a look at are maps (both modern and vintage) pertaining to the areas where your ancestors were from, as they can really help to assist in painting that picture of what the area was like during the times that your family were living there, and comparing the maps can prove to be not only to be fascinating, but to assist you in your research.

Local record offices and local family history societies are another incredible resource in assisting with family history research, and joining a family history society that you find is nearest to where your ancestors were from (especially even before you begin to set off on your journey) can once again be incredibly helpful as you are planning and preparing for your trip. Most family history societies also have brilliant resources on their websites and fantastic links and information relating to all of the local records. Speaking to one of the friendly staff with any questions that you may have relating to the hopes and plans that you have for your heritage trip, can also help to point you in the right direction.

And then of course don’t forget the local travel agencies and tourism offices (as mentioned earlier) who can also often offer personalised tours of the local areas that you are hoping to visit.

For the full ‘family heritage travel experience’ though, why not consider incorporating both a local tour run by a travel or tourism office in the area where your ancestors were from, along with a more personalised guided tour with a local genealogist/family historian, which would provide the perfect way to really get to know more about your ancestors and give you that opportunity to really walk in their footsteps and get a sense of what their lives may have been like.

If you would like to find a genealogist in the area that you are planning to visit, there are wonderful directories on both the APG (the Association of Professional Genealogists) http://www.apgen.org and the AGRA (The Association of Genealogists and Researchers in Archives) http://www.agra.org.uk websites and a list of all of the family history societies in the UK can be found on the Federation of Family History Societies website at http://www.ffhs.org.uk

Good luck with your research and happy travels!

Tina Alsford is an English born professional genealogist and probate researcher, who now lives in Australia. Tina has a particular interest in nineteenth century England and specialises in London family history research. She is currently also a start-up blogger for Samara Magazine (an Australian online magazine for women in business).

A Guide To British Regional Nicknames: Smoggies, Yam Yams & Moonrakers

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Over the centuries the rest of the world has bestowed upon the British people many a japing nickname (limey, pom, redcoat), but what do the Brits call themselves? While the majority of regional nicknames began life as derogatory terms, most are now worn as a badge of pride.

Sign for Moonrakers ©  Miss Steel and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

Sign for Moonrakers © Miss Steel and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

Here are some of my personal favorites:

Wiltshire – Moonrakers

Legend has it that sometime during the 17th or 18th century a pair of Wiltshire smugglers stashed some contraband barrels of French brandy in a village pond in order to avoid paying tax on them. When night fell the men returned to the pond to recover their loot. However, local customs officers were on to them and waiting patiently in ambush. As the smugglers began raking in the barrels the revenue men confronted them. Thinking on their feet the crooks explained that they believed the moon’s reflection to be a delicious clump of round cheese. With this the taxmen regarded the bootleggers as nothing more than a pair or harmless yokels and retreated, no doubt recounting the tale to much hysteria at the office the following day. But of course, it was the moonrakers who had the last laugh. Incidentally, this practice is where we take the term ‘moonshine’ for illicit liquor from, as most dealers would work at night to avoid detection.

Hartlepool – Monkey Hangers

The story goes that sometime during the Napoleonic Wars (1803-1815) a French ship was wrecked off the coast of Hartlepool. When local fishermen discovered parts of the washed up vessel they were astonished to find one sorry looking survivor – the ship’s pet monkey dressed to the nines in Napoleonic military uniform (adorned for the crew’s amusement). Having never before seen a Frenchman – or a monkey for that matter – the fishermen suspected the furry foe was a French spy. An impromptu trial was then held on the beach, and when the defendant refused to answer any questions he was sentenced to death and hung from the mast of a fishing boat… or so the story goes. What seems more likely (if indeed an incident even occurred and there is no concrete evidence to suggest it did) is that the unfortunate soul that was hanged wasn’t a monkey at all, but rather a young boy. In those days young children known as ‘powder-monkeys’ were employed on warships to prime the canons with gunpowder.

Liverpool – Scousers

With the construction of its first wet dock in 1715, Liverpool grew practically overnight from a small fishing town to an international port city. Suddenly sailors, traders, migrants and merchants from all over Britain, Ireland and Northern Europe were settling in the area, all of them bringing their national idiosyncrasies to everyday life (which is the reason why the Liverpudlian accent has a cadence unlike any other in Northern England). The term ‘scouse’ derives from the Scandinavian dish lobscouse, a lamb or beef stew that was particularly popular with sailors. Consequently, the people who ate this dish became known as scousers.

Blackpool – Donkey Lashers

In Victorian-era Britain the rise of the railway industry meant that people from non-coastal towns and cities could now take daytrips to the seaside. One of the most fashionable destinations was Blackpool, and one of the most popular attractions was the donkey rides up and down the beach. Thus, the visitors affectionately christened the locals ‘donkey lashers.’ This beloved seaside tradition continues to thrill British children and depress British donkeys to the present day.

London – Cockneys

The word ‘cockney’ first appears in William Langland’s poem Piers Ploughman (the exact date of publication is unknown but it was almost certainly sometime between 1360-1370) and simply meant ‘cock’s egg.’ However, by the time Chaucer was composing his Canterbury Tales a couple of decades later, he was using the term to describe “a spoiled child,” “a child tenderly brought up,” or “a milksop.” Usage continued to evolve throughout the Middle English period (1150-1500) and after 1500 to label someone a cockney was to suggest they were a “town dweller” however the word still carried its earlier connotations of suggesting someone was a bit of a sissy or a mummy’s boy. Definition narrowed further over the next one hundred years and by 1600 ‘cockney’ was specifically associated with the Bow Bells area of London. Indeed, the great travel writer Fynes Moryson wrote in his 1617 book Itinerary that “Londoners, and all within the sound of Bow Bells, are in reproach called cockneys.” According to tradition a true cockney must be born within earshot of the St Mary-le-Bow church’s bells, which before modern noise pollutants such as motor vehicles and construction machinery could be heard for six miles to the east, five miles to the north, four miles to the west and three miles to the south. A 2012 study discovered that due to the noise pollutants there are now no maternity wards within earshot of the St Mary-le-Bow bells, suggesting cockneys are something of a dying breed.

Middlesbrough – Smoggies

‘Smoggie’ was originally used as a derogatory term to describe supporters of the Middlesbrough soccer team by rival fans. The nickname alludes to the heavy cloak of smog that regularly hung over the town as a result of its numerous petrochemical factories. However, it wasn’t long before the Middlesbrough fans were referring to themselves as smoggies in that typically British, self-deprecating manner (as made evident by the fans’ banners at away games that read “Smoggies On Tour!”) These days the term has widened and is used to describe anyone from the area.

Devon – Janners

‘Janner’ was originally used as naval slang to refer to anyone from the Devonshire port city of Plymouth. The epithet came about because of the way West Country folk pronounced the name ‘John’ as ‘Jan’ as in the sentence: ‘I likes these toffees, Jan.’ These days janner is used to describe anyone who speaks with a Devon accent.

Newcastle – Geordies

Similar to both ‘scouse’ and ‘cockney,’ the word ‘geordie’ refers not only to the people of Tyneside (specifically Newcastle) but also to the local accent and dialect. As is so often the case where etymology is concerned the specific origin of the term is a matter of heated debate. However, almost all theories agree that it derives from a diminutive form of the name George, which was the most popular name for the first-born son in North East England for many years from the 1700s onwards.

Lincolnshire – Yellow Bellies

If heated debate surrounds the origin of the term ‘geordie’ it is nothing compared to the fiery bickering around the root of the phrase ‘yellow belly.’ Dozens of possible explanations have been put forward, the most common being that a breed of newt or frog (there is even disagreement as to which amphibian) that once lived in the marshy Fenlands of Eastern England had a bright yellow underside. A more feasible explanation is that the term is a military nickname attributed to the yellow waistcoats worn by the Royal North Lincolnshire Militia. Another less likely theory connects the term to the corn farmers of the region. During the summer months the Lincolnshire farmers would often tend to their cornfields without wearing a shirt. As they bent over to work their backs would catch all the sun’s rays, leaving their bellies a contrasting brilliant white. Once they stood straight the corn would reflect a yellow tincture upon their torso.

Black Country – Yam Yams

The first thing you’ll probably want to know is why the Bloody Nora it’s called the Black Country? Well, this region of the West Midlands was particularly active during the Industrial Revolution and takes its name from the heavy layer of black soot that covered the area for most of the 1800s. As for the name ‘yam yam’, it’s to do with the local pronunciation of the present tense of the verb to be – “I am” which colloquially comes out as “y’am.” Nearby neighbors in Birmingham are responsible for dubbing the Black Country folk as yam yams, and in turn they are known as ‘brummies,’ which comes from the Old English name for the city: ‘Brummagem.’ Interestingly, ‘brummagem’ would later enter the dictionary as an adjective to describe cheap or fraudulent goods due to the city’s 17th century reputation for producing counterfeit coins.

What are some of your favorite British or American regional nicknames? Tell us in the comments below.

Jon Langford is a British expat living in NYC where he is often asked if he’s Australian on account of his Yorkshire accent.  He is a freelance copywriter and writer, regularly contributing to BBC America.  He has written for many publications including: MLSsoccer.com, First Touch Magazine, Inked Magazine, Contactmusic and more.  Follow him on Twitter at @Jon_LangfordNYC

Hot summer in historic Winchelsea 

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The following is a guest post.

A hot June day in the Secret Gardens of Winchelsea. Ideally, a day for a crisp cotton dress and a big hat, roses, scones and a cup of tea beneath a shady tree.

Town Sign © Stephanie Gaunt

Town Sign © Stephanie Gaunt

But I get ahead of myself…. First, a bit of history. About six miles from our home in Hastings, Winchelsea is another of the ancient Cinque ports of Kent and East Sussex, somewhat surprising now as it is at least a mile from the sea.  The second settlement to carry the name, ‘Old’ Winchelsea was drowned by the sea in cataclysmic storms between 1250 and 1280. The ruins of the town lie out in Rye Bay. However, the place was so important that a new town and port was built nearby.

Roses everywhere © Stephanie Gaunt

Roses everywhere © Stephanie Gaunt

Planned and built between 1282 and 1288, the new town was one of the earliest to be laid out in a grid pattern, and the streets were numbered not named (giving rise to a totally spurious local myth that Winchelsea was the inspiration for the layout of New York). Much of the original grid pattern still survives. The old houses, now hung with roses, still front onto the streets, with the ‘secret’ walled gardens behind.

Cottage with roses © Stephanie Gaunt

Cottage with roses © Stephanie Gaunt

At first, the new town and port were extremely prosperous, with at least three churches and two monasteries. Extensive cellars under substantial stone-built houses supported a major wine trade. The town was defended by walls, ditches and impressive gates, some of which still survive.

The Armory © Stephanie Gaunt

The Armory © Stephanie Gaunt

Strand gate © Stephanie Gaunt

Strand gate © Stephanie Gaunt

However, like all ports along this stretch of coast, the constantly shifting coastline led to the port silting up, and by 1561, no boats could moor at Winchelsea.  The town went into rapid decline. One of the few industries to prosper was smuggling, with the cellars of the now dilapidated houses used to store illicit contraband.

Alarmed by the debauchery and criminality of the inhabitants, the Methodist preacher John Wesley visited the town in 1771 and again in 1789, by which time a chapel had been established in his honour.  Wesley preached his last outdoor sermon at Winchelsea, in 1790, six months before his death.

Wesley's chapel © Stephanie Gaunt

Wesley’s chapel © Stephanie Gaunt

In the early years of the twentieth century, Winchelsea was popular with writers and artists, attracted by cheap property, beautiful countryside and for many, the proximity of Henry James, who had settled in nearby Rye. The American writer Ford Maddox Ford lived in Winchelsea between 1901 and 1907.

Madox Ford's © Stephanie Gaunt

Ford Maddox Ford’s house © Stephanie Gaunt

These days, Winchelsea has found new prosperity. The beautifully restored houses are inhabited by the affluent, who open their lovely gardens to scores of curious visitors on several days each year.  There is now only one church, St Thomas’s, long since reduced from its original impressive size.

Church © Stephanie Gaunt

Church © Stephanie Gaunt

When we visited this time, there were Morris dancers in the streets and teas served in the Village Hall, as well as the beautiful gardens to wander round. It was all very lovely, but a glimpse of a fantasy England and a lifestyle that most of us can only dream of.

A peaceful pool © Stephanie Gaunt

A peaceful pool © Stephanie Gaunt

Beautiful border © Stephanie Gaunt

Beautiful border © Stephanie Gaunt

Stephanie Gaunt moved to Hastings, East Sussex three years ago from Birmingham in the West Midlands. She now lives overlooking the sea on a hill behind the Old Town with her husband Nick and Digby the food-obsessed rescue cat. She writes a blog about her experiences of starting a new life by the seaside, www.hastings-battleaxe.blogspot.com. Stephanie has always enjoyed writing, both prose and poetry, and is an active member of the Hastings Writers’ Group.

What to Watch: Streaming Hot Picks

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We often discuss PBS and BBC America’s programming on this blog, but if you’re not watching Netflix or Hulu you’re missing out on a whole cache of shows that you’d not see otherwise.

Derek: Series 2 – Netflix

If you are on social media, you will be familiar with Ricky Gervais’ goodwill ambassador, Derek Noakes. He promotes the heck out of that show.
In series one, we learned that Derek works at Broadhill Retirement Home with his friends Hannah (Kerry Godliman) and Dougie (Karl Pilkington). He loves the residents at the home, animals and YouTube videos…about animals. Derek’s motto is to be kind to everyone, even considerably debauched characters like Kevin (David Earl) who loiter around and freeload off the care home.

Just like the first time around, there is just as much sadness as laughter in series two. Derek’s long-estranged dad comes to live at Broadhill; at the urging of his friends, Derek gives internet dating a try; and in a home full of people at the end of their lives, Hannah and her boyfriend Tom (Brett Goldstein) attempt to bring a new life into the world – with very little privacy, might I add.

I have a few warnings about this series:

  • If you love Karl Pilkington, as I do, you will be disappointed to discover that Dougie makes a very quick exit in the first episode.
  • If like me you don’t care for the alcoholic, sex-crazed Kevin, you’ll be seeing even more of him because he and Derek become roommates. You also get to meet Kevin’s even more disgusting brother, Cliff.
  • If you are an animal lover, like me and Derek, prepare yourself for the saddest thing you’ve ever seen in any TV show or movie.

While Derek is far from a perfect show, the thing that makes it worthwhile in my opinion is that Ricky Gervais gives just about every character the opportunity to redeem themselves. No matter how unlikeable these people may be, we get insight into their pain and their dreams. Subsequently we are inspired by Derek’s example to accept them where they are at that moment. If nothing else, watching Derek can make you aspire to be a better human being.

 

Rev. Series 3 – Hulu

Rev. is another sitcom that is as dramatic as it is funny. Tom Hollander plays Adam Smallbone, the vicar at East London’s St. Saviours, an “intercity church with intercity problems” as he’s often reminded by Archdeacon Robert (Simon McBurney). Over the first two series we’ve watched Adam deal with many dilemmas which fall into one of two categories – making his parish viable and relevant or balancing his time between work and home life with wife Alex (Olivia Colman).

Series three, however, brings all Adam’s issues to a head. St. Saviour’s is due for an audit which it is unlikely to pass. His wife has been promoted in her legal aid job, so Adam is left to supply the lion’s share of childcare for their infant daughter, Katie. And a moment of weakness between Adam and church school headmistress Ellie Pattman (Lucy Liemann) ultimately leads to a crisis of faith that isn’t resolved until the very end of the last episode.

The third series is chock-full of delightful guest appearances from Hugh Bonneville, Joanna Scanlan, Ralph Fiennes and Liam Neeson among others.
If you’re willing to ride out Reverend Smallbone’s Job-like trials, your perseverance will be rewarded in the end. Tom Hollander is fantastic as this all-too-human vicar who experiences the same feelings, temptations and stresses as the average person and yet is expected to be better than the rest of us.

 

The Politician’s Husband –Netflix

Where to begin? This political drama stars David Tennant as star cabinet minister Aiden Hoynes and Emily Watson as his brilliant, but less visible MP wife, Freya Gardner. When Aiden’s resignation/leadership bid goes sour, he realizes his presumed good friend and fellow minister Bruce Babbish (Ed Stoppard) has set him up for his own political gains.

From then on, everything Aiden does is about revenge. Oddly enough when Freya is offered a cabinet position of her own, her husband sees it as the perfect way to get back at the Prime Minister, the party and most importantly his Judas of a friend, Bruce. His wife will serve as his eyes and ears and when the time is right, she’ll turn on the Prime Minister, thus vindicating Aiden.

At first the pair is on the same page, but quickly Freya realizes she has ambitions of her own and has been in her husband’s shadow long enough. When Aiden directs his wife to turn the tables on the PM during a TV interview and she fails to come through on the air, her betrayal puts Freya on her husband’s list for retribution as well. Golden couple indeed…

 

There are a few things I have to say about this three part mini-series before I out and out recommend it. Don’t expect the Doctor version of David Tennant. They highlighted his hair for heaven’s sake.

Tennant plays a complex character – a smart, ambitious SOB with jealousy issues. Aiden sincerely loves his family, but is driven by the need to win at all costs. Thus he has lost sight of what his responsibilities in Parliament and at home truly are.

Also Aiden and Freya have this weird sexual relationship wherein talking about political strategy and the power of their careers is a turn-on. If that’s not ridiculous enough, the couple then proceeds to engage in aggressive lovemaking. Though it does play into the plotline of the story later on, I could have done without the awkwardness of it anyway.

The ending of The Politician’s Husband is a bit predictable, but I’d still recommend it for the insights you can gain about the British political system, the nuanced performance of Emily Watson and the drama created by the unexpected turns of Aiden’s scheming mind.

I hope you are tempted to try one of these shows and, if you already have, please chime in on what thought of them.

Carmen is an American wife and mother of two college students who live away from home. With her yellow lab Malcolm by her side, she watches and writes about British television for her own blog Everything I Know about the UK I Learned from the BBC. Read more of Carmen’s posts here.


The Film Fatales Review Magic in the Moonlight

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The Film Fatales tell you whether there is magic in Woody Allen’s latest.

Magic in the Moonlight film poster © IMDB

Magic in the Moonlight film poster © IMDB

Magic in the Moonlight (2014)
Rated PG-13
Starring: Colin Firth, Emma Stone, Simon McBurney, Marcia Gay Harden,
Jacki Weaver, Eileen Atkins, Hamish Linklater.
Written and directed by Woody Allen.

A romantic comedy about an Englishman brought in to help unmask a possible swindle. Personal and professional complications ensue. (IMDb)

Elizabeth: Anytime there is a flick starring Colin Firth (Pride & Prejudice, Bridget Jones’ Diary, Railway Man), it is probably a good bet that Nicole and I will be running, not walking, to see it. In Magic in the Moonlight, Firth’s Stanley Crawford, an illusionist with an attitude problem and over-blown ego, is all dapper in the best finery of the 1920s. Emma Stone (Easy A, The Amazing Spider-Man, The Help), as Sophie Baker, an American who portrays herself as a mystic, seems to be taking advantage of an American family in France. And, can you blame her since the lovesick son, Brice (Hamish Linklater, The New Adventures of Old Christine, Newsroom, Crazy Ones) has learned to play the ukulele (earplugs should be given out) while trying to win Sophie’s heart? I really got to like Sophie right off because she had the gift to roll her eyes and still look charming. Director Woody Allen brings these characters together in what I would call and light and breezy comedy.

Nicole: I was seriously born in the wrong era and on the wrong continent. I’m always drawn to period pieces, especially if they take place in Europe. It also doesn’t hurt when they’re starring Mr. Darcy himself…wink, wink. But, I digress. I agree; light and breezy comedy is the best way to sum up this film. Firth plays a masterful curmudgeon who often doesn’t realize his sarcasm, albeit it hilarious and on target, is sometimes tiresome and mean-spirited. It was a joy to watch Stone’s Sophie wear him down in an attempt to get him to let go of his philosophical trappings and accept that some things in life defy explanation.

Elizabeth: While I did like this movie, it seems that Woody Allen is fading from his movies. If I didn’t know that Allen wrote and directed Magic in the Moonlight, I would not have attached him to this film. Maybe it just means that his humor has mellowed a bit and maybe he wants to explore a new storyline. Maybe it is all about him growing and leaving the “Woody Allen of the last fifty years” behind. As I write this, I realize that this is what the movie is about – changing your long-held beliefs for something that might even make you happy. Sometimes my brilliance scares me.

Nicole: Oh, great and all-knowing guru, I agree in part; Allen’s work has been very different of late. I’m going to hazard a guess and say that’s because of his newfound love for the UK and Europe. Although I much preferred Midnight in Paris to this, there are some comparisons to be drawn – a fascination with the occult, questioning the unexplained, and a main character who has an epiphany through love.

Elizabeth: It was great to see my Colin doing comedy again and he is helped along with a terrific cast. His Aunt Vanessa, portrayed by Eileen Atkins (Doc Martin, Upstairs Downstairs, Cranford, Gosford Park), is a woman head of her time and her wardrobe could stand up to and surpass some of the styles out today. I must give Allen major kudos for making a visually beautiful movie.

Nicole: Ahem, he’s your Colin, eh? Fine, but then I get to claim the other Mr. Darcy (Matthew Macfadyen as “mine”; deal?) Oh, I loved Aunt Vanessa. Atkins, who is generally wonderful in everything, was so in tune with Firth in all their scenes. Their dialog was particularly Allen-esque, seeming very natural and improvised. And, yes, what a stunningly gorgeous film: I’ve always loved how Allen uses the natural surroundings and existing architecture for his sets – no fakery. What a joy it must be to work on one of his shoots.

Elizabeth: So, in conclusion, I think Magic in the Moonlight gets better a day or two after seeing it. When I got over that there was not enough NYC angst and dramatics for my taste, I realized that Allen sent us a little valentine.

The Film Fatales give Magic in the Moonlight:

IMG_1600

The Film Fatales are two acid-tongued, sassy broads who rant and rave about the best and worst of modern and classic cinema. Elizabeth Cassidy is an artist, creativity coach for artists and writers, an award-winning blogger and the fifth Beatle. To know Elizabeth is to be slightly afraid of her. Avid blogger and smart-arse, Nicole Dauenhauer is an advertising copywriter by day and an aspiring fiction/non-fiction writer by night. She’s an incorrigible Anglophile whose inner voice speaks in a British accent and prefers her Earl Grey with milk and sugar – not lemon.

Stone, Blood and Art: The Tower of London and the Role of Memory

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William the Conqueror’s plan for the Tower of London likely did not include its role as a tourist attraction – but he certainly meant for it to be a statement. Rising up on the north bank of the Thames, the complex has served as palace, prison, and residence.

You might be forgiven, approaching the Tower from almost any direction, of perceiving its walls, moat, and series of buildings only through the throngs of visitors – historically, the Tower of London and large crowds go together like tea and scones.

The symbolism and the stories of the Tower, however, loom large in my mind, and as I walked across Tower Bridge a few weeks ago, I felt a visceral chill when I saw the profusion of poppies spread across the moat and seemingly pouring down the walls.

The Tower of London from the south bank of the Thames © Janie-Rice Brother

The Tower of London from the south bank of the Thames © Janie-Rice Brother

By now, everyone with internet access, I feel, has seen the photos of the “Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red” exhibit installed at the Tower of London. Members of the Royal family were photographed walking amongst the poppies, and nearly every media outlet released some sort of piece about the exhibit.

In commemoration of the start of World War I, 888,246 ceramic poppies are being placed in the moat and also cascading from the walls of the Tower. The poppies, all hand-crafted and each unique, represent each death in the British forces in the First World War.

The poppies at the Tower © Janie-Rice Brother

The poppies at the Tower © Janie-Rice Brother

The installation was created by ceramic artist Paul Cummins. Stage designer Tom Piper helped shape the setting of the poppies – interpreting how the flowers would be placed (not in orderly rows – the carnage of that first modern war defied order and sense) and how the cascade of red would interact with the famous backdrop and the location.

The Tower of London, like the city around it, changed a great deal from the Norman period to the twentieth century. I won’t mention the abuse the Tower suffered at the hands of the Victorians in the 19th century as it moved from a working institution to monument. Although the draining of the moat in 1845 likely improved the air of the immediate area tremendously! The Tower reverted back to an active role during World War I, serving as military depot, recruitment center and training ground.

I’ve thought a great deal about World War I this year. In May, I found a small notebook kept by my paternal grandfather on his journey from America to England in 1918 – he eventually wound up in France. He died before I was born, so the sense of discovery created by his brief, matter-of-fact entries was immense. I connected with a man I had never known (http://fhandfag.blogspot.com/2014/05/cemeteries-stories-and-memory.html).

Connections – that is really the root of my fascination with historic buildings and landscapes. And the combination of an art exhibit with a powerful and iconic building, both imbued with messages about memory, power and despair, is so incredibly moving. The Tower of London, I feel, prods activity in any  imagination, no matter how out of use it might be – the sheer scale of the White Tower – the execution of Anne Boleyn on Tower Green – the Princes in the Tower – if memory had substance, it would spill from the walls.

And, that, I think, is the beauty of the poppies. They represent the story of the Great War, but also all of the stories that never transpired. Will remembering the barbarity of war in this way influence today’s children to avoid wars and the resulting shattering of lives? I don’t know. My knowledge extends as far as my own experience, staring out over the moat, and crying in the morning sun.

The startling red shocks the eye, placed as the flowers are against the multitude and layers of stone – the starkness of the architecture softened, almost, by the curve of the petals. But even noticing the interplay of colors and textures, it is impossible for me to forget the lost generation that perished, and that each glinting ceramic flower stands for someone’s lover, father, son, brother. My grandfather was one of the lucky ones that came home. According to my father, he never talked about his time in France – his memories needed no exhibit to stay fresh and horrifying.

Poppies fill the moat – during World War I, a bomb landed and exploded in the Tower’s moat © Janie-Rice Brother

Poppies fill the moat – during World War I, a bomb landed and exploded in the Tower’s moat © Janie-Rice Brother

Janie-Rice is an intrepid architectural historian with a double first name. She enjoys dark chocolate, old dilapidated buildings, and darting around English country houses in all sorts of weather. She’s a proud native Kentuckian and a farmer’s daughter. Janie-Rice is currently plotting her next trip to England and looking for a patron to sponsor it (landed gentry preferred.) Visit her at www.fhandfag.blogspot.com and on Twitter at @GerbBrother

Foods That British Expats Really Miss

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I’m a Brit who loves living in the USA! I’m very much an ex-jolly-hockey sticks Brit, who’s embraced the American lifestyle and to confirm this I now frequently don a cowboy hat and Daisy Dukes.

I find myself saying ‘awesome’ a lot and I ask for the ‘check’ and not the ‘bill’. But…I also still say ‘brilliant’, and I confess to having Marmite stashed in the back of my cupboard, and I, of course, still spell certain words with a ‘u’. After all, it’s only been 18 months!

claire bolden

British expat Claire Bolden and her son, living in the USA

To be honest, I don’t miss that much about the UK because I’m having a bundle of fun discovering the USA – however, a strange sensation came over me just t’other day when I suddenly thought of fish ‘n’ chips British-chippy style – you know, with all the salt and vinegar squizzed all over them, and wrapped in newspaper, getting all soggy at the bottom as you sat and ate them watching the drizzle down the windscreen (not windshield, note!).

And, even  though I wasn’t one to partake in this traditional British fayre much back home, oooh, I tell you I could have got me chops right round a big old greasy bag of ‘em and wolfed the lot down there and then!

And this got me to thinking…what are the things that Brits really, really miss when they are in the USA? Food, it appears, is very often top of the list.

So, what do they hanker after? What do they get their relatives and friends to stash in their suitcases; what do they utterly long for and research online to find if it’s available in various British online stores over here, no matter what the shipping cost?

Well, I put the word out and the great folk of Smitten by Britain and other expat networks responded, and these are the findings.

Enjoy!

The ‘What Foods Expat Brits Really Badly Miss’ List

1. Spotted Dick.

All I think about sometimes is Spotted Dick in custard. I know they sell it on the shelves in some stores, but it’s not the same.’

‘Americans don’t understand about pudding. They can keep their pumpkin pie – it’s spotted dick all the way for me.’

 

Spotted Dick with custard © Johan A on Flickr Creative Commons

Spotted Dick with custard © Johan A on Flickr Creative Commons

 

 2. Fish and chips.

‘I’ve not found anywhere that makes them properly, dripping in batter and with vinegar. Why don’t they use vinegar properly here?’

‘I miss that smell of the chippy on a Friday night. The bag kept my hands warm on a cold night when I walked back home from the pub.’

 

 3. Chocolate

‘I’ve tried the chocolate in America and it sucks. My whole family craves Dairy Milk and Galaxy. My friends know the list when they come over. It is very important to me!’

‘I need British chocolate. None of that Hershey stuff. Although I heard that Hershey’s have taken over Cadbury’s or something. Is nothing sacred?’

Cadbury chocolate © Smitten by Britain

Cadbury chocolate © Smitten by Britain

 

 4. Roast dinners.

‘Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, carrots, cabbage, and potatoes. Nothing like it. I’ve tried to recreate it in the USA, but for some reason it doesn’t quite taste the same. Perhaps I need it to rain!’

‘Nothing beats a roast dinner Brit-style. You can keep your pulled pork and your cook outs. Roast dinner with the family – that’s the way to do it!’

 

 5. Tea.

‘I eventually found tea bags that were British out here. I’ve scoured many shelves. Lipton’s is not always the best choice, but sometimes it seems to be the only choice!’

‘Tea in a teapot and poured into china. Downton Abbey style! That’s what I miss. Not wham, bam, cup of hot tea with a lemon on the side.’

 

Afternoon Tea at Llangoed Hall © Visit Britain Images

Afternoon Tea at Llangoed Hall © Visit Britain Images

6. Bacon.

‘Weirdly enough going to the supermarket even made me miss home – I missed certain foods (especially bacon and scotch eggs) I don’t like the ‘super convenience’ where you get fluid eggs in a box and everything is microwaveable.’

Thank you to everyone who provided comments and quotes for this article. If you’re a British expat, please leave a comment here or on Facebook with the foods you miss the most!

Thanks for reading!

Claire McGill is a British expat living in Maryland, which means she still drinks tea, but now has it with a corn muffin instead of a crumpet.  Claire has two blogs – one which observes the amusing and confusing cultural differences between living in America and Britain (www.ukdesperatehousewifeusa.wordpress.com) and her fitness blog (www.fortyshadesoffitness.wordpress.com)

British Telly Addict Alert for September 2014

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As autumn begins to descend summer activities are winding down and the kids have returned to school. You may find yourself with a bit more time on your hands or, like me, you’re just always looking for a telly fix.

Whatever your excuse, as your telly blogger I have been tasked with finding shows that are newly arrived or on the horizon to satisfy your British TV cravings.

On BBC America

I’ll begin with the obvious. You all probably know that the Doctor has returned with great fanfare over at BBC America.

 

Did I detect a bit of a Malcolm Tucker rant there, perhaps? Without the swear words, of course! Series eight is set to run into mid-November, so we’ll have to see if the praise for Peter Capaldi and company continues.

Just from the titles of the upcoming episodes, it appears the Doctor will be encountering Robin Hood and a mummy. One episode is entitled ‘Listen’. Could this be the new ‘Blink’?

On PBS

PBS has some familiar faces returning as well. Our favorite crime solving spinster Miss Marple (Julia McKenzie) is back. Masterpiece Mystery will be airing a double feature of ‘A Caribbean Mystery’ and ‘Greenshaw’s Folly’ on Sunday, September 21st.

 

The final episode of this series, ‘Endless Night’ will air the following week.

What I enjoy most about the Miss Marple mysteries is the guest appearances. You’re bound to see a few familiar faces in every episode. In series six, look out for Peep Show’s Robert Webb, Call the Midwife’s Judy Parfitt and Hugh Dennis, the frazzled father from Outnumbered just to name a few.

On September 28th, series two of The Paradise returns. A year has passed since John Moray (Emun Elliott) left Katherine Glendenning (Elaine Cassidy) at the altar in favor of his true love, ambitious shop girl Denise Lovett (Joanna Vanderham).

The Paradise on PBS © pbs.org

The Paradise on PBS © pbs.org

Since then the owner of The Paradise, Lord Glendenning (Patrick Malahide) has died and the store has changed hands to his daughter Katherine and her new husband, Tom Weston (Ben Daniels). While Denise remains at The Paradise, Moray has been banished to Paris.

 

Will Denise and Moray be reunited? What of the rivalry between Denise and scheming shop girl Clara (Sonya Cassidy)? And what will become of the financially beleaguered Paradise itself? Who knew retail was such a melodramatic business?

On Netflix 

Let’s move on to what’s coming on those increasingly popular video streaming services. Who hasn’t seen this Netflix advert yet?

 

Granted Happy Valley debuted on Netflix on August 20th; however, seeing as the only British TV series reportedly being added to the entertainment site in September is Sherlock: Series 3 (which I’m fairly sure we’ve all seen) this new crime drama is the most worthy of mention.

Created by Sally Wainwright, the writer of Last Tango in Halifax and Scott & Bailey among others, Happy Valley takes place in a community where drug use is prevalent; a prominent businessman’s daughter gets kidnapped; the police are under threat every day and, in the center of it all, Sergeant Catherine Cawood (Sarah Lancashire) is just trying to hold it all together.

After watching Happy Valley I think it deserves all the hype it got when it was broadcast in the UK last spring. While it’s not a mystery per se since the viewer is a witness to the crime all along, it is a compelling crime drama from the perspective of a police officer who is also living with the consequences of a tragic family incident. Despite the cheery title, Happy Valley can be disturbing and quite violent at times, but the edge-of-your-seat narrative and the excellent cast makes it must-see TV in my book.

On Hulu

Hulu is my constant companion. Every day I watch at least an episode or two of their British television collection. However, they are sneakier about when they actually add new programming. Unless it’s a show to which they have exclusive US streaming rights, they don’t really make a big fuss promoting it.

Lately I have noticed quite a few new titles pop up on Hulu’s carousels of offerings. Here’re just a couple of the programs the site has added to their ever-growing selection of UK produced telly.

Ambassadors stars comedy partners David Mitchell and Robert Webb as British Embassy employees in the fictional Asian country of Tazbekistan. Mitchell plays the newly appointed ambassador while Webb is his more experienced Deputy Head.

For those familiar with Peep Show and other Mitchell and Webb collaborations, Ambassadors has a more dramatic tone overall with some humorous situations set around it. My favorite storyline is the second episode when spoiled Prince Mark (Tom Hollander) comes to Tazbekistan as a trade envoy.

 

Bluestone 42 is a sitcom that follows a British Army bomb disposal unit in Afghanistan. They are led by ATO Captain Nick Medhurst (Oliver Chris), the guy who wears the suit and actually defuses the IEDs. He’s good at his job, but off duty he’s something of a womanizer and gourmand.

Medhurst’s team is strictly business when lives are on the line as well, but when they blow off steam you might wonder why anyone would ever hand them a weapon or allow them around explosives at all.

 

While Blackpool first aired in the UK almost a decade ago, I’m excited to see this genre bending series on Hulu. Starring David Tennant, David Morrissey and Sarah Parish, this musical murder mystery is the type of endeavor destined to be considered a cult classic. I can’t explain it any better than this clip.

 

On Acorn TV

And finally, if you have a subscription to Acorn TV’s on-line service, they will be streaming series two of James Nesbitt’s medical drama, Monroe starting September 1. I thoroughly enjoyed this program and have been waiting almost two years for its return. I literally squealed with happiness when I saw the news.

Monroe is a brilliant neurosurgeon with more than a few problems at home. He also has a tendency to irk some of his colleagues at the hospital, specifically the head of cardiology, Dr. Jenny Bremner (Sarah Parish). I’m eager to see who the charming Mr. Monroe will annoy this time.

 

That’s it for this installment, but I’ll be back next month with a whole new list of British telly alerts. In the meantime, happy viewing!

Carmen is an American wife and mother of two college students who live away from home. With her yellow lab Malcolm by her side, she watches and writes about British television for her own blog Everything I Know about the UK I Learned from the BBC. Read more of Carmen’s posts here.

Disclosure: Carmen received a free account with Acorn TV Online in exchange for blogging about Acorn TV and she is a regular contributor to Telly Visions, a blog associated with Washington D.C.’s local PBS station, WETA.

A Teatime Treat Not Just For The Kids

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It’s that back-to-school time of year and it got me to thinking (again) about some of my favorite snacks from those good old school days.

Hands down one of the yummiest and easiest snacks to make is chocolate cornflake cakes; so simple younger kids can even make them and oh so delicious.

The addition of one of my favorite ingredients, golden syrup, makes these crispy, chocolaty bites an afternoon treat to remember. Putting the mixture into cupcake holders holds everything together and if you put them in the fridge to set they are easy to just pop in your mouth.

Your fingers still might get a bit sticky, but it’s worth it!

Crispie Cake © Lucinda Sears

Chocolate Cornflake Cake © Lucinda Sears

The recipe below is adapted from a recipe from www.bbcgoodfood.com.

Chocolate Cornflake Cakes

Ingredients:

½ stick of butter

4 ounces of milk or dark chocolate (or a mixture of the two) broken into pieces

3 tbsp golden syrup

3 heaped cups (100g) cornflakes (you can also use Rice Crispies)

Ingredients © Lucinda Sears

Ingredients © Lucinda Sears

Directions:

Put the butter, chocolate and golden syrup in a saucepan or microwavable bowl. Put the cornflakes in another large bowl.

Melt the butter, chocolate and golden syrup in the saucepan over a low heat or briefly in the microwave.

Allow to cool a little before pouring over the cornflakes.

Stir the ingredients together gently using a wooden spoon.

Stir ingredients in bowl © Lucinda Sears

Stir ingredients in bowl © Lucinda Sears

Spoon the mixture into 12 cupcake cases arranged on a muffin tray (or baking sheet, if you don’t have one).

You can always double the recipe to make bigger crispie cakes.

Spoon into muffin tin © Lucinda Sears

Spoon into muffin tin © Lucinda Sears

Put in the fridge to set. Easy!

Enjoy!

Lucinda Sears is a British expat living in Massachusetts. She and her friend Donna started a business selling British items called The Bees Knees British Imports. You can also find The Bees Knees British Imports on Facebook and Twitter. Read more of Lucinda’s guest posts here.

King Arthur and Dolly Parton: The Magic of Glastonbury

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Camelot, meet Nashville. I venture that most people won’t automatically associate the legends of Camelot with the pint-sized dynamo from East Tennessee – but as I like to stress in my day job, context is everything. And when the context in question is Glastonbury, surely all sorts of strange pairings suddenly make sense!

The landscape of Glastonbury, both real and imagined, historic and present, has been mined by scholars, mystics and pilgrims for centuries. The most recent of celebrations linked to Glastonbury is, of course, the Glastonbury Festival, a five-day music festival held annually (albeit intermittently) since 1970.

It was no surprise to me that a sassy, rhinestoned Dolly Parton stole the show at the 2014 Festival.  She shimmied across the stage, charming the audience (which exceeded the crowd for the headliners Arcade Fire and Metallica), and brought her own blend of country to this corner of Somerset. Unfortunately, I was not part of the muddy, sodden masses singing along to “9 to 5” in Pilton (the village adjacent to Glastonbury that hosts the festival), instead viewing the streamed-live concert from the comforts of my living room in Oxford.

The Glastonbury Tor © Janie-Rice Brother

The Glastonbury Tor © Janie-Rice Brother

But even without the feel of mud oozing up beneath my feet, my mind easily veered off into reflection on the lure of Glastonbury. Settlement in this part of southwest England stretches back into the last period of the Stone Age, with Iron Age and Bronze Age villages located to the northwest and west of Glastonbury. This was a watery area in prehistoric times, and the dramatic shifts in topography are quickly discernible upon climbing Glastonbury Tor, one of the most famous hills in England. The conical-shaped hill is natural, and prior to modern drainage techniques, it was an island among the flooded Somerset Levels.

The terracing on the hill, however, is not natural, but owes its existence to the shaping hands of unknown Neolithic people, around the same time as the construction of Stonehenge. Much like that famous landmark, countless theories exist as to why the hill is terraced; the most common being that the terraces create a maze to guide pilgrims to the peak of the hill. (Although one could also imagine that the terraces served as stages of some kind…)

Looking out over the Somerset Levels from the Tor © Janie-Rice Brother

Looking out over the Somerset Levels from the Tor © Janie-Rice Brother

Stretching up 518 feet, the Tor provides not only a healthy walk, but an incredible view – and I don’t think it is just my propensity for fanciful thought which perceives walking up this particular hill to be much more than exercise. Even when numerous tourists clamor about in various stages of climbing, there is a palpable sense of silence – and weight – that envelops the visitor to Glastonbury Tor. As I walked, I felt both solitary and connected – a dichotomy that made perfect sense at the time.

The craggy stone silhouette of St. Michael’s Tower, dating from the 15th century, is only the latest of churches that attempted to harness the power of this hill looming over the Somerset landscape. Archaeological investigations point to earlier church buildings on the summit – perhaps as many as four previous churches, one of which was destroyed by a powerful earthquake in 1275. The National Trust took over management of the Glastonbury Tor in 1933, but interest in rehabilitation and restoring the Tower dates back to 1804.

St. Michael’s Tor on the top of Glastonbury Tor © Janie-Rice Brother

St. Michael’s Tor on the top of Glastonbury Tor © Janie-Rice Brother

Beneath Glastonbury Tor is the Glastonbury Abbey, where the mists of myth and legend swirl about with an intensity that hasn’t wavered over many centuries. First established as a Benedictine monastery, around 670-678 AD, the Abbey replaced an earlier “pagan” religious site. The abbey is linked to two key figures: Joseph of Arimathea and King Arthur.

Joseph supposedly brought the Holy Grail to Glastonbury, and later, King Arthur came to the Tor searching for the Grail. The abbey was partially destroyed by fire in 1184, and during reconstruction, the monk discovered a double oak coffin, some 16 feet underground. Inside the coffin were the remains of a man and a woman with blonde hair. (No, this is not where I re-introduce the Dolly Parton connection.) Inscribed on the exterior of the coffin were the words “Here lies buried the famous King Arthur in the Isle of Avalon.” The caskets were lost during the chaos of the Dissolution, but the belief that Arthur’s final resting spot was in Glastonbury persists.

And the faithful continue to gather for a myriad of reasons in Glastonbury – whether to pursue spiritual guidance, or to meditate on the landscape and its nuanced uses and meanings. Or perhaps they gather in farm fields, stirred into a frenzy by music, sporting flamboyant blonde wigs, and singing lustily along to “Jolene.” Magic is where you find it, after all.

The tithe barn associated with Glastonbury Abbey © Janie-Rice Brother

The tithe barn associated with Glastonbury Abbey © Janie-Rice Brother

Janie-Rice is an intrepid architectural historian with a double first name. She enjoys dark chocolate, old dilapidated buildings, and darting around English country houses in all sorts of weather. She’s a proud native Kentuckian and a farmer’s daughter. Visit her at www.gardenstogables.com and on Twitter at @GerbBrother

The Dowager Duchess of Devonshire and Chatsworth

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I study and document historic buildings and their landscapes for a living – and part of that process involves telling the stories of the people that lived and worked in those spaces. These are important personal narratives, and help inform us about how everyday people used their buildings and shaped their surroundings.

Sometimes, though, one person’s strength of will and determination transcends that neat pigeonhole of merely resident or owner. Certain individuals become a force, saving incredible buildings – not just for their own use, but for the public to enjoy and treasure.

The Dowager Duchess of Devonshire, or “Debo” as she was known to family and friends, embodied the spirit of that amazing country house known as Chatsworth. Her death at the age of 94 marks the passing of an era – her sense of purpose in the years after World War II reinvigorated not only a house, but also a community.

The Dowager Duchess was famous for sharing her home through her many books © Janie-Rice Brother

The Dowager Duchess was famous for sharing her home through her many books © Janie-Rice Brother

Chatsworth, of course, is not only a grand county house in Derbyshire, but the stand-in for Pemberly in the 2005 Pride and Prejudice film adaptation starring Kiera Knightly. The actual history and development of the estate, however, holds its own with any theatrical production.

Home to the Cavendish family since 1549, and the seat of the Duke of Devonshire, the house and landscape have been expanded, altered and reinterpreted over the centuries. Jane Austen described the house as a “large, handsome, stone building standing well on rising ground, and backed by a ridge of high woody hills; and in front, a stream of some natural importance was swelled into greater, but without any artificial appearance.”

Capability Brown’s busy, busy hands shaped the landscape seen today, while William Talman, Thomas Archer and Jeffrey Wyattville, along with the respective dukes of the time, lent their talent to the monumental expanses of bays, columns and pilasters. And before the energies of the late Dowager Duchess helped Chatworth rise from the ashes of death duties and war, Bess of Hardwick oversaw the construction of the Elizabethan house on the site.

The south front of Chatsworth – the family has rooms on the ground and first floor of this elevation, which was designed by William Talman. © Janie-Rice Brother

The south front of Chatsworth – the family has rooms on the ground and first floor of this elevation, which was designed by William Talman. © Janie-Rice Brother

But despite the grandeur and history of the estate, Chatsworth, like many country houses across Britain, was confronted with great change in the 20th century. Debts incurred by previous Dukes necessitated selling portions of the library and many thousands of acres of land. During World War II, Penrhos College, a girl’s school in Wales, occupied the house for six years.

The contents of the house were packed away and the state rooms became dormitories. Many people believed that the family would never live in Chatsworth again – when the 10th Duke of Devonshire died unexpectedly in 1950, leaving $7 million in death taxes to his heir (worth 80% of the estate), speculation that Chatsworth would become another museum or holding of the National Trust was rampant.

But the 11th Duke and his wife, the former Deborah Mitford, instead decided to retain their home. Paintings by Rembrandt and Raphael were sold, as were tens of thousands of acres of land. Hardwick Hall transferred to the National Trust in 1959, and keeping Chatsworth alive became the focus of the family – and in particular the Duchess – from the time they moved back into the house in the mid-1950s.

Today Chatsworth is a multi-layered site – and also a business. I think it is important to realize that keeping country houses open and afloat is not unlike running a multi-million dollar corporation. The Dowager Duchess was very much involved in the commercial enterprises at Chatsworth, but she also conveyed the sense that the estate was also still very much a family home.

Chatsworth, as seen from across the River Derwent. © Janie-Rice Brother

Chatsworth, as seen from across the River Derwent. © Janie-Rice Brother

Lovers of art, architecture and landscape design can rejoice in what has been preserved, but the efforts of the Duchess ensured that everyone could find something to enjoy at Chatsworth. She also set up and ran the very popular Chatsworth Farm Shop on the estate, selling local eggs, cheese, fruit and vegetables, game and meat. The café, always overflowing with people, was also her baby, and these two ventures not only brought profit to the estate, but earned her the nickname “the housewife Duchess.”

Her drive and energy extended to two hotels, a catering service and restaurants – all the while she penned numerous books about Chatsworth (and her beloved chickens!) and kept an active hand in the running of the public side of the house, often leading tours and talking to visitors, always in a down-to-earth and charming manner. I was a country-house obsessed college student when I met the Dowager Duchess, and she gave every appearance of being delighted by the fact that one of the many tourists she encountered was a farm girl from Kentucky.

The death of her husband, the 11th Duke of Devonshire, meant that her role at Chatsworth changed. She moved from the grand house, but her influence lingered. And now, with her passing, her legacy is celebrated by the life and vitality evident in every corner of Chatsworth – without her, this corner of Derbyshire would be very different today.

The sculpture gallery at Chatsworth. © Janie-Rice Brother

The sculpture gallery at Chatsworth. © Janie-Rice Brother

Janie-Rice is an intrepid architectural historian with a double first name. She enjoys dark chocolate, old dilapidated buildings, and darting around English country houses in all sorts of weather. She’s a proud native Kentuckian and a farmer’s daughter. Visit her at www.gardenstogables.com and on Twitter at @GerbBrother






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